I was able to get about 17 seconds and it took about 2 hours, I almost settled for less. It seems to work great except the shop floor tilts a lot with temperature changes I must adjust every 3 to 5 days this is bothersome. Thank you for your suggestions I will use them I plan to build another one or two. ----- Original Message ----- From:To: Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 9:36 PM Subject: Re: What Do you think > In a message dated 22/01/01, bgoss@.................. writes: > > > Well I finally got my sight updated tell me what you all think. > > The results look OK, which is what counts. > > I see that you have used both magnetic and fluid damping. With the > magnetic damping, you have used Al plate which is not nearly as effective as > Cu and you have also used a very large magnetic gap. This suggests that your > magnetic damping is a sort of 'add on' correction. The problem with fluid > damping in general is the huge changes in fluid viscosity with temperature, > particularly between summer and winter. If it works OK, don't 'fix' it. If > you want to experiment at any time, I suggest you try a bit of 1/8" Copper > plate, no fluid and reduce the magnet gap till you get ~critical damping. > This will be independent of temperature. > > You might want at some stage to fit a small underrun lamp (1/2 to 2/3 > rated voltage) inside the top of the box to give a stable temperature > gradient to the internal air. A layer or two of bubble wrap with suitable > viewing holes cut in it could provide additional insulation while still > allowing light through. A layer of polythene damp proof sheeting under the > whole apparatus could prevent any condensation problems from the flooring. If > you get any problems with lightning where you are, you might consider > mounting the amplifier on the baseplate and connecting the baseplates > together with a common earth. > > For others still in the design stage, you can get threaded Brass and > Stainless Steel rods, which are both non magnetic and so won't give problems > with magnetic interactions. Another alternative is to get plain rod and have > some thread put one end. Mounting the sensor system just inboard of the > weight can give a more compact system. Socket cap screws can make levelling > adjustments easier to perform and fine threads are available - it is a bit > easier to get an extension rod into a hole than a flat screwdriver bit into a > slot. > > What stable period did you manage to get? > > Good for you and Good Luck! > > Chris > __________________________________________________________ > > Public Seismic Network Mailing List (PSN-L) > > To leave this list email PSN-L-REQUEST@.............. with > the body of the message (first line only): unsubscribe > See http://www.seismicnet.com/maillist.html for more information. > __________________________________________________________ Public Seismic Network Mailing List (PSN-L)
Larry Cochrane <cochrane@..............>