Another approach to stripping magnet wire is to lightly burn the end of the
wire with a match or lighter -- don't cook it to a crisp, just enough to
burn the insulation.  Then remove the insulation by laying the wire on a
flat surface and rubbing it with a pencil eraser.  With a little practice,
you can wind up with very clean copper on the end of the wire.

Another problem with very fine wire is that the copper disolves into the
solder used to tin it, resulting in wire that is much thinner than it's
supposed to be after tinning (or non-existant).  This is especially true
with the high temperatures needed to remove insulation such as Beldsol and
the like.  The answer to this is a special solder with lower copper
solubility.

Karl

At 02:55 PM 12/27/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Regarding the direct solderability of Beldsol at 700 Deg F, I have
>found that lightly scraping the enamel insulation with a razor-type
>knife facilitates the removal of the insulation when soldering it to 
>a terminal, which reduces the chances of melting the socket or pin or
>whatever if it is  a PVC material. For temperature control, I use
>the Weller WTCPT solder station that uses interchangeable tips with
>different temperature cut-offs (where the curie point of the tip
>is reached at a given temperature and it becomes non-magnetic and
>releases a magnetic switch that turns off the heater current; if you
>have one of these, this is why it clicks all the time). This Weller
>soldering system is much more affordable than those with electronic
>temperature control, and safer than constant wattage controls.


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